Portuguese Camino

By Rosemary Viggiani

Santiago de Compostela

Well, I thought that was the end but the sightseeing was amazing! Yesterday we went to 7:30am Mass then did a tour of the Cathedral Museum and learned so much of the history of St James and his pilgrimage, beheading and the finding of his remains guided by a star.  This was followed by a tour of the Cathedral roofs. I didn’t entirely understand that we were to actually walk on the tiles!! 😳. 
Today Suzanne had to leave early for a bus back to Porto so I walked for a bit before returning to the Cathedral for the 12 noon Mass in the hope of experiencing the Botafumeira. I was not disappointed - it is amazing! 
I am now waiting in the cool back at the hotel before catching a bus to the airport for a late flight back to Gatwick. 
What an amazing experience the last 16 days has been!! 
I feel very blessed! 


Final stage: Teo to Santiago da Compostela!

Oh my, I can’t quite believe it’s all done!!
We set off from Teo this morning after staying in what was the least welcoming hotel I have ever stayed in. Everything was too much trouble. Breakfast was at 8am - late by Camino standards as we like to be out early to beat the heat. But they said they couldn’t let us in earlier as they had to cook breakfast. One slice of toast, a croissant, slice of cake, a kiwi fruit, squash and a coffee.  Other hotels have provided a feast to set you up for a day’s walking!!  Hey ho! 
The weather was kind to us - cool and overcast. We made good progress. Today we were serenaded along our way with a keyboard player and a guitarist at various points! 
The route was about 15km of hills with a total 1,100ft climb!! Fairly tough! 
We got to Santiago by about 12:30.  We then checked in at the hotel and went to see what’s what re the Compostela. It was all done in a trice!! Certificates issued - including my name in Latin!  We were also serenaded in by more bagpipes!!   Later we went to have an initial recce of the cathedral booking tours for tomorrow before asking someone to take photos of us in our Portugal GreenWalks shirts in a very special spot - the ‘zero’ point marked by the impression of a shell. A young Korean looking man laid flat to photograph us while getting a full view of the cathedral in the background! 
So this is my last update after a 280km adventure of a lifetime. If you have never thought of doing it I would highly recommend it!!  Sightseeing tomorrow, home on Thursday - can’t wait!! 
Thank you for following me and a huge thanks to everyone who has donated to such a worthy cause. You have also really helped me finish by seeing all your support. Thank you!! I’m still a little way off my target so if you can share this page with friends and family it would be much appreciated . 
Thank you!
Rose xxx

Penultimate day: Padron to Teo: 14.5km

Another fabulous walk today. 14.5km - mostly thorough scenic country paths. Although I am confused at how much seems to be steeply uphill!? Maybe that’s just what makes an impact?!  Must be doing me good!! 
Again we are blessed with beautiful weather - but I am so glad we chose to walk shorter stretches each day. 12 to 15km seems stretching but achievable. Many people who left with us today were looking to reach Santiago today. That would mean another 15km in the heat of the day leaving little time to enjoy the villages we are passing through and little time to recover!! 
We once again had some musical encouragement on a country path. Having had a harp and an electric guitar on earlier days today we had …. Bagpipes!!! 😮😂🤗❤️.
Santiago tomorrow, our final stop followed by a day sightseeing then home on Thursday. I have thoroughly enjoyed this challenge but it will be lovely to be home!! 

Stage from Cernadas to Padron - c14km

Another day and a fabulous surprise at the end of today where we found a swimming pool at our hotel!! 🤗🥰😁
We started where we left off yesterday at Cernedas. Today was a really beautiful stage, mainly through forests, ending in Padron. 
The day started cool and the walk was beautiful- but as the sun rose further it again became hot and stuffy! 
There was still the smell of smoke in the air following forest fires near Padron yesterday - but they seem under control with helicopters still dumping water. 
We arrived in Padron to find the Sunday market in full swing. It was huge but nothing really temped me - and I have to be under 10k for luggage on the way home! 
Then we had an even better surprise with the pool at the hotel!! 
Just two days walking left!! We are due to arrive at Santiago on Tuesday. We have a free day sightseeing in Santiago on Wednesday when we can claim our Compostela then I fly home on Thursday whilst Suzanne goes to Leipzig to catch up with her son. I can believe it is nearly over but soo looking forward to being home with Luca!! 
Meanwhile thanks to everyone who has donated to the Air Ambulance through my page. Over £500 now!! Well done everyone! xxx

Caldas de Reis to Cernedas

Thank this was a relatively short stage from Caldas de Reis to Cernedas at just under 10km. Mainly on forest paths through farmland it was such a different story to yesterday when I felt quite unwell by the end!  Today we set off early, at about 8:15am in the relative cool of the morning and made good progress arriving by about 10:30 where we had a coffee then called for the cab back. I walked some of the way with a young lady from Boston who is studying for a PhD in Religious Studies focusing on the historic role of Nuns in work - a fascinating young lady! We also bought a ne class that joins together where Suzanne and I have half each for posterity. 

Camino stage from San Amoro to Caldas de Reis

A really, really long, hot slog today!! 
We had stayed at Pontevedra for a second night and were given a lift back to San Amaro to recommence the walk from where we stopped yesterday. We knew it would be hot as it was forecast to be 35C - and it was blazing with little shade for much of the route - especially later in the morning.  We had been told it would be 12.2km. By the time we got to 16km with no hotel in sight we felt every metre!!  By the time we found the hotel it was hard to hold the pen to sign my name!!  It is at that point that your support for us really helps to keep us going - let’s just say that some others keep Uber in business!!
But there were delights along the way with wildlife and animals to cheer us along and some wonderful waterfalls where we bathed our feet and refilled my super duper filter bottle from the cold, clear river. Our hotel is great! A kettle, tea and a fridge. Luxury!
By tomorrow we will be ready for the next stage but right now feet up and a cup of tea is all we ask for!!  Later we will summon the energy to seek some food and find their renowned hot springs!

Arcade to San Amaro

Two days to update tonight. 
Yesterday we walked the 13km from Arcade to Pontevedra. Today we did a shorter leg of 9km to San Amaro. 
Again we have been blessed with wonderful weather and it looks fairly settled as we enter our second week. 
We left Arcade crossing the Pontesampaio Bridge that was the site of one of the bloodiest battles against Napoleon in 1809. Thankfully peaceful today!!  We then had a beautiful walk through woodland - albeit having to tackle some brutal boulders in one area that threatened broken ankles if you slipped!! Thankfully we negotiated them before having a long walk beside a stream. We also met a new friend, Katy. A young lady from Rome in Georgia, USA who has had the most amazing life to date including time volunteering overseas. She is now walking the Camino on her own so far from home. Totally inspiring!! We had dinner together and caught up with her again very briefly in San Amaro today. 
Today’s walk was shorter and easier underfoot as well. Once again we met some unusual entertainment in a forest glade - a man on an electric guitar playing “Imagine”. 
From San Amaro we had a cab back to the Hotel in Pontevedra where we are staying for a second night before getting a cab back to San Amaro tomorrow to continue our travels. Meanwhile we had a lovely Spa break this afternoon before sightseeing and eating in Pontevedra. 
More updates tomorrow as we walk the next stretch to Caldas de Regis where natural hot springs await!!

Redondela to Arcade

Today was a relatively short stretch of just 9.2km. But it enabled us to explore Redondela before we left, walking out on a very scenic route by the river towards the estuary. The actual Camino walk today took less than 3 hours but involved some very long climbs on forest paths (total climb over 600ft!!)   Perhaps the most bizzarre sight was a lady in a forest glade beside a natural water source playing a harp!! And playing most beautifully!!
We got to Arcade too early to check-in so went down to the waterfront to have a swim in the estuary. Cold but immensely refreshing and restoring! 
Tomorrow we move on to Pontevedra. 
Rose xx

Vigo to Redondela - our first stage on foot

So, we swapped our bikes for Shank’s Pony this morning. 
We set off on foot at about 8am on a glorious sunny day with clear blue skies and a light breeze. It was wonderful and we both felt good. 
Our path today led us into the mountains, through forests and villages and away from the coast. The flora was amazing and so varied - from hydrangeas, tomatoes and peppers through grapefruit trees, figs, olives and kiwi fruit through large oak trees and eucalyptus. 
The animal live included cats and horses to chickens and bossy cockerels. I couldn’t help singing “Il est bel et bon”! 
We eventually dropped back down to enter Redondela at about 3pm.  Another 17km under our belts! 
A bit of a respite tomorrow. Just about 7km from Redondela to Arcade.  Another update then!!

Oia to Vigo

Our last day with the bikes! 
We left the Hotel a Raina this morning with a good breakfast and ready for 45km+ to cover.  It was a glorious day as we pedalled up the coast on good roads - but again - no cobbles!! Hurrah!! But there were still long, steep hills!!  There were also amazing coastlines with huge rocky outcrops and waves crashing against them. Also beaches ideal for surfers with massive breakers rolling in!
But the highlight for me was finding a quiet beach in Baiona where I swam in a calm, cold sea - ideal for aching thigh muscles! Back on the bikes we reached Vigo at 3:30, checked in then said goodbye to the bikes before walking into the city to find a cold beer and a bite to eat. On our tootsies tomorrow - 15km to Redondela await!! 

Viana do Costello to Oia

Another early start with breakfast at 6:45 and a fabulous hotel insisting we took left over breakfast items for lunch!  We cycled up the coast (on cobbled roads!) and alternated roads and boardwalks - some of which showed the earlier storm damage with 2ft deep sand and blocked ramps meaning we had to negotiate steep steps instead! 

We eventually reached the Minha river with instructions to take the ferry to Spain. We were not warned that it was more akin to the experience of smuggled boat people clinging on to a small dingy travelling at speed!!!

Once in Spain we immediately appreciated the lack of cobbled roads!!! Bliss!!! But, oh my!! The steepness and length of the climb into the mountains!! 🥵

Tomorrow we have our last section on the bikes - just as we have got used to them!! We head up to Vigo where we will say good bye to our trusty wheels and continue on foot for the final 100+km!  

June 5th: Villa do Conde to Viana do Castello

Another day, 49k and many more cobbled roads!!! 

We left Villa do Conde at 7:40am after breakfast - and more contraband seized for lunch! We eat the contraband in the gardens of a church at noon rang out to the Westminster chimes! 

We covered a total of 49k meeting many interesting people    Tomorrow we set out for Oia crossing the Minho river into Spain. I can’t believe that our Portuguese miles are nearly done!!

Stage 1: Porto to Vila do Conde

We set off from Porto this morning just before 8am with some trepidation! The bikes are heavy - but great and we eat up the miles. The weather was alternating between sunny and warm and very threatening - but the rain stayed away! However the cobbled stone roads were endless!!! We arrived in Vila do Condo at about 1:15pm and the hotel allowed us in at 2pm. After a short break I walked around Vila do Condo old town, discovering the old Lace Museum.  Now ready for Stage 2. Somewhat longer tomorrow- 50k and hoping for fewer cobbled streets!!

Porto - June 3rd

Sightseeing in Porto today before setting off tomorrow. Walked up to the city centre and picked up an amazing sightseeing tour whilst learning all about the history of Portugal from a 20 year old Physics student whose grandfather was a reporter at the Red Carnation Revolution in the 1970’s. Saw the Duomo and registered for the Cammino getting our first stamp for our journey. We are on our way!! 

I'm supporting London's Air Ambulance Charity

I’m excited to be taking on the challenge of cycling and walking the Portuguese Camino with my childhood friend. We will be covering 285km between Porto in Portugal and Santiago da Compostela in Spain.  Setting off from Gatwick on 2nd June we will take a day to prepare before setting off cycling on 4th June.  We will cover about 180km in the next four days before setting off walking to cover the final 100km by foot arriving in Santiago on 16th June and taking a final day to recover before flying back on 18th June - if everything goes to plan!

Given the nature of the challenge I would really welcome your support and encouragement.  If you were able to give a donation to the London Air Ambulance service it will really help to make it doubly worthwhile!

Thanking you in advance for your support - I’ve never tried anything so challenging previously! 

Rose

Thank you to my Sponsors

£11.55

Andrea Bessant

I’m full of admiration Rose! A fantastic life-enhancing experience. Congratulations👏

£33.15

Bill An Ann Harrison

Fantastic effort Rose well done

£10

Anonymous

£11.55

Debbie Bentley-ross

Well done Rosemary

£32.43

Sally Woods

Very well done Rose x

£10

Glynis Smith

£20

Deborah Collymore

£22.80

Peter Hammond

£110

Lesley Collyer

Well done Rose! x

£22.80

Margaret Blunden

Well done, Rose.

£30

Aïda Niven

What a good cause you have supported, Rose. We all have been following you regularly and are proud and inspired. Well done xx

£96.44

Paul & Valerie Eldridge

Congratulations on achieving your goal

£5

Anne Johnson

My friend Val told me about your amazing journey well done.

£25

Sheila Vallance

Many congratulations! What a wonderful adventure which will stay with you for life and a worthy cause into the bargain. You should be very proud!

£20

Andrew Gray

£54.75

Lynda Cole

Well done Rose 🎶

£11.55

Eileen Davis

Sounds like a really worthwhile trip Nearly there!!- What an achievement! Best wishes from Eileen and Tum

£22.80

Agnes Maxwell

Amazing Rose and friend! What an achievement.

£33.15

Helen Dorrell

£22.80

Anne Odams

Well done, Rosemary, a truly amazing effort!

£22.80

Gill Hickson

Great cause. Good luck and enjoy.

£54.75

Anonymous

Good luck with the last kms, Rose

£22.80

Olga Van Haastert

£10

Gill Dutton

Sounds like you’re having great fun. Keep going!

£10

Jo Cox

Well done Rose . Keep going. I am donating this via Joan. Good luck and love from your ex neighbour Jo xx

£10

Yousaf Malik

Hope you’re well ! Excellent work

£6.18

Maria

Sounds amazing! Very inspirational.

£33.15

Penny Arnold

Well done you!

£22.80

Julie Foard

Very well done to you both so far! Good luck for the coming days - I’m sure you’ll make it! A great cause too. xx

£10

Jane Jones

Keep going Rose!

£22.80

Audrey P

An amazing undertaking Rosemary, well done indeed! Enjoy it all!

£28

Lesley Collyer

Well done Rosemary and Suzanne, you're doing great. keep it up. He who dares .....lots of love Lesley xx

£38.41

Moira Wilkes

Well done Rose.

£20

Thomas Chapman

What an amazing experience. Have a wonderful time.

£22.80

Liz Brown

Well done Rose

£11.55

Dani Kelly

Hope all goes OK, and have a great time doing it xx

£20

Val Jarvis

Enjoy the experience.

£22.80

Dona Brown

Best wishes Rose xx

£22.80

Anonymous

Good luck with your journey and take care of yourselves.

£10

Sue M

Good Luck Rose!

£28

Liz Hopkins

An amazing thing to fo Tose and aceonderful cause. Good luck! Xx

£11.55

Priya Prasan

All the best rose

£22.80

Helen Coverdale

Good luck to you both! Thank you for raising funds for such a good cause.

£33.15

Joan Currion

Well done so far Rose and Good Luck for the days ahead x

£28.50

Rose

Looking forward with trepidation to a massive challenge!